21/1/2009 - Tarkine Drive

One auspicious weekend last September (yes, I'm a Hawthorn fan), we had the joy of attending an engagement party at Marrawah in Tassie's windswept far north-west corner (and no, we didn't get any TV reception to see the grand final!).  Several weeks earlier, we booked our accommodation at the 'swankiest' joint in town, the "Marrawah Beach House."  The view north over the bay towards Mt Cameron West and Cape Grim were stunning so I would seriously recommend this lovely 3-bedroom cabin.

 Looking north to Mt Cameron West from Marrawah Beach House

Next morning, we took advantage of our location to indulge in a Tarkine drive.  South of Arthur River, we headed inland from Couta Rocks on Rebecca Road and past the (then) still closed Western Explorer (aka Road to Nowhere, aka Heemskirk Road, etc).  For a tourist road to remain closed for so long is amazing in a place like Tassie where tourism is so important.  It really makes me wonder whether a new 'tourist-only' road in the northern Tarkine will be given any higher priority if work is needed at any stage in its life.

Western Explorer.  This was the first warning that the road was closed, about 1.5 hours drive south of Smithton!

As our route turned north-east, we paused at the Balfour Track Forest Reserve.  We walked in and out a short distance from the northern end.  This patch of forest is superb and the children enjoyed looking at and photographing the towers of burrowing freshwater lobsters.

Looking at lobster holes on the historic Balfour Track.

A bit further on, we stopped at Sumac Lookout and Lake Chisolm before back-tracking a little to lunch at the Julius Rover Forest Reserve.  The rainforest-fringed lake lies in a drowned sinkhole giving testimony to the karst landscapes featured in parts of the Tarkine.  I have since read that Lake Chisolm is one of two drownded sinkholes in the area.  I'm now curious to find out where the other one is.

'Chainsaw Art' (somewhat ironic) at the Sumac lookout with a view of the Arthur River from the lookout platform.

As we headed home, the 'still-missing' Tayetea Bridge required more back-tracking to the Kunnunah Bridge where we then took back-roads north through Trowutta, Lileah, Alcomie and Forest before rejoining the highway and heading for home.

Speaking of Trowutta, a little-known feature in this area is the Trowutta Arch and associated caves.  Several years ago, I organised a mystery day-outing for 100 young people based at a Riverbend summer camp near Smithton.  As the bus headed through Edith Creek and up to Trowutta, even the locals had no idead where we were headed.  It seems this reserve is not well known at all.

Once you arrive at the Trowutta Caves State Reserve, a well marked but infrequently used track leads a short way to the spectacular arch formation.  Through the arch, a large water-filled sinkhole looks quite menacing.  Apparently, it is possible to get from one side of the sinkhole to the other via caves dotted around the sides.  This is a theory I will have to explore at a later date.

Hmmm...  I've just had a blinding flash of the obvious...  Perhaps Trowutta Arch is the other drowned sinkhole referred to in the Lake Chisolm brochure I was reading!

My visits to Trowutta Arch pre-date the digital camera.  One day, if I stumble across the appropriate shoe box, I may scan and post some relevant photos to accompany this entry.